Archive for the ‘Day Trips St. Louis’ Category

Blue Hole Heaven

Friday, September 25th, 2009
"Paradise is so close."  Tom Aures, river chef, Berlin Germany

Found a rare species … In fact, saw many of them grouped together amidst a vast sandbar usually known as Mosenthein Chute.

The rare species is known as a “Blue Hole.” Or at least that’s what the river rats call it. It is not a mammal, bird, reptile, amphibian or otherwise “living” thing. Rather, it is a phenomenon of river hydrology, climate and weather, and the effects of man made, crudely engineered dikes of stone. We discovered their existence six years ago and have returned in the late Summer and Early Fall since.

A Blue Hole?

Tucked right against the dike lay three pristine pools of Mississippi River Water, surrounded by high sand hills, little oases created for the best swimming on the river. These pools are the result of a channel of river traveling beneath the sand and then flowing back to the top like a spring, with the benefit of being filtered clean by sand. Each pool fills out approximately 15 meters in diameter, deep with layered temperatures to 20 feet bottom. They are oblong shape, one in a heart shape, au natural and exquisite.

"Supa Supper".  Hungarian Goulash, authentic, delicious and prepared by a native.
All of this is the result of seasonally low water, approximately 3 ft gauge height at St. Louis. It creates a highly contoured sand island attached to Mosenthein. A perfect place for a dinner camp, eagle watching, pelican viewing and a symphony of forest, river and sand bar sounds.

Xtreme River Time?

Wednesday, August 26th, 2009

Sometimes river time, the way we love it, is not what others are looking for. There are some folks who are not interested in a peaceful and soulful experience. No, for some, it is excitement and adventure that they crave. For that, the Chain of Rocks is where we go. It is just the place to amp up the adrenaline flow and put our skills to the highest test. It is probably the most troublesome, dangerous place on the Mississippi River for paddlers, especially at a low water stage.

Planet X dudes and Big Muddy Mike in the Chain of Rocks cauldron. Photo by John Torigan

Planet X dudes and Big Muddy Mike in the Chain of Rocks cauldron. Photo by John Torigan

Yesterday, we had the opportunity to provide the daring and exciting version of river time for a group of elite, world record holding Planet X athletes. Dave, Dan Mahoney, Ryan and their Planet X film crew, led by Brian Simpson, are pogo stick crazy. Dan jumps a world record nine feet in the air over things on his air compression pogo stick. Dave can flip his around mid-air, much like a skateboard dude or a bmx dude, and bounce or jump or stick again and again without a drop or tumble. His amazing acrobatic moves are cool. No, these are not athletes you would see on ESPN Sportscenter, but they are great athletes nonetheless. And their courage and daring are off the charts. They called Monday night, requested for a Tuesday trip, and we went for it.

At twenty four feet long, the Clipper was our choice of canoe to take the whole crew over the Chain of Rocks, filming in HD all the while. I explained how difficult our attempt would be. It excited them even more. I explained how we needed to provide for our safety in very meticulous and pro-active ways. They understood that well and helped set up a second canoe on the sandbar below the Chain as a safety boat.

At seven feet gauge height in St. Louis, the Chain of Rocks is a thundering obstacle course created by the mass of Mississippi River water (200,000 cfs, yesterday) flowing to a precipitous point, a ledge stretching the entire width of the river with massive boulders, rocks and assorted river detritus (refrigerators, car parts, anything that has come from flooded zones far away) layered through the entire river channel. The entire river is rushing, falling and tumbling in a labyrinth of boiling, churning and standing waves, with a washer machine hydraulic effect mashing and mixing the water. There have been deaths here.

From upstream at water level, you can’t see any of the possible lines of water to run. There are only a couple. River right is our preference for a more simple and less tumultuous run over the Chain. River left is for pro’s only. We scouted and filmed the Chain from a few vantage points, trying to decide where to paddle. Of course, the Planet X choice was the “rad” one, river left, in the “big water”, where the danger is highest, where I would not go unless I was completely confident that everyone could handle it.

We carried the Clipper from the parking lot on Choteau Island to a sand and mud bank just above the Chain falls. Everyone tightened their vests, checked their cameras and settled into the six seat positions on the Clipper. We paddled upstream along the bank, then did a big circle between the old Route 66, “Chain”, Bridge and the I-270 bridge, practicing our paddle strokes. Finally, we pointed it downstream, searching for the exact line we had decided on. We approached rather slowly, and got right to the edge where the water falls away, where the river simply grabs you, pulls you over the falls and hurtles you through the cauldron. I yelled, “Back Paddle! Hard!”, and continued yelling at the crew who quite impressively provided the power to abort the run.

When we got to the edge, I realized that I was not quite centered with the line of water I wanted. We would have dropped right on top of the big boulder marking the left side of the line. We circled around again, and I asked, “Should we really do this?” I got looks of amazement, as if, “what are you thinking? Of course, we should do this. C’mon, dude!”

We circled again and pointed the Clipper back to the Chain. I encouraged everyone to paddle hard, with no intention of aborting and only a slight chance to alter course. Over the edge we went, the high prow on the Clipper successfully shedding a good portion of the water that would have come in as it hit the bottom of the falls. The canoe bounced up into the huge standing waves, wiggled and rolled a bit, then followed the rush of water downstream. Whew! Twenty seconds of total rush and right side up at the end. I was “stoked” and relieved.

“Aw, man! that’s it?”, one of the Xtreme dudes cried.
“Yeah, that’s it.”
A moment of silence ensued as we turned into the eddy below the falls. Then, I heard one of the guys exclaim, “We should do it again, only this time, let’s go over backwards!”
Now I was the one with the… “Are you goofy?” look on my face. “No that’s quite enough. We don’t tempt the river gods too much around here.”

Maple Island / Mud Island

Sunday, July 19th, 2009

After 48 hours at home, I am heading out the door to rejoin the Monsta Movie Expedition. While home here, I have tried to repair torn and burned tents, and broken poles, but the only hope seems to be to order new poles and to leave the rain fly repair for post expedition. Also, I had the great pleasure of leading a sunset river trip with the Reimer’s of St. Louis last night.

Jimmy takes a swim in the Maple Island back channel.

Jimmy takes a swim in the Maple Island back channel (on purpose, hee-hee).

Deb, Jimmy and clan got a real taste of big muddy adventure. The put-in at Maple Island was a deep bed of mud due to the fallen water levels. All the fellas and the ladies (woo! hoo!) lent a hand and got knee deep in the goo to launch. The main channel of the river was lined with tow boats waiting to lock through. One in particular had jammed his 15 barges into the bank of Maple Island blocking the back channel, all the while running his engines to maintain position. On our return route of the classic sunset circumnav, we had to paddle out into the main channel and around this ill-positioned tow with the wash of his engines creating very turbulent if not treacherous waters. The Reimer crew put their heads down and paddled hard upstream into the flow, while shrieking as the Clipper canoe rocked and rolled across the chaotic waves.

Highlights of the evening were the variety of birds we witnessed: a brown pelican, many great blue herons, egrets and swallows, a couple of woodpeckers and signs of beaver, deer, coyote, and raccoon during our brief stop and walk in the woods. To top it off, Jimmy and I took a sunset swim hoping but failing to get all of the mud off. Now it’s back to Monsta Movies Expedition. I go from a muddy Maple Island to the real “Mud Island” in Memphis.

Flooded Forest

Thursday, July 2nd, 2009

Two weeks ago, we paddled one of our favorite routes with Joni Doyle and her son. We put in at Maple Island access on a scorching late afternoon. Temps were in the mid 90’s. As we made the turn into the back channel for our return upstream, the flooded forest invited us in. We paddled between willow, cottonwood and maple trees. At various points, we were pulling the canoe with our hands wrapped around the trunks and squeezing between. The rewards of our effort were immediate. The temperature dropped 20 degrees and the magic of wetlands appeared. Later we stopped along the cut bank of the island and climbed out of the canoe for some exploring. The mud squeezed between our bare toes as we walked inland. The colors and light were enchanting. But the highlight of the trip was the swimming. Three times, we walked a hundred yards along the bank. Then jumped in, floating and swimming along with the current back to our canoe. Refreshing!